We don't think of dairy products as pantry staples because they generally need to be refrigerated and have a short shelf life. There are two notable exceptions: evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk. Both are shelf-stable and canned, and both are sold in the baking section of the grocery store, often side by side, so they are easy to confuse. We talked to the experts about evaporated milk vs. condensed milk to learn how these two products are similar and what makes them different, plus whether you can substitute one for the other.
- Sébastien Canonne, Meilleurs Ouvriers de France, pastry chef and the founder of The French Pastry School in Chicago and The Butter Book, an online baking school
- Isamar Leal, recipe developer and the chief creative director at the Florida Education Institute
- Erin Cayaban, corporate pastry chef at TAO Group Hospitality.
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What Is Evaporated Milk?
"Evaporated milk is a dairy product made by gently simmering regular milk, which removes [about] 60 percent of the water," says Isamar Leal, recipe developer and chef creative director at the Florida Education Institute. The result is a liquid with twice the milk fat (and twice the dry milk solids) of fresh milk, says Sébastien Canonne, MOF, pastry chef and founder of The French Pastry School in Chicago. Canonne says you can make a homemade substitute for evaporated milk by gently heating milk until it's reduced.
Taste and Texture
Due to the high content of milk fat and dry milk solids, evaporated milk is thicker and creamier than regular milk, says Leal. It also has light caramelized flavor and ivory color.
Uses
Evaporated milk can be used in both baking and cooking, where it provides richness, creaminess, and a mild "cooked" flavor without adding sweetness, says Leal. Because it is unsweetened, it works well for both sweet and savory dishes, from desserts (like pumpkin pie and flan) to soups, pasta sauces, and mashed potatoes, says Canonne. Also, "it can be used to enhance hot beverages, such as coffee and hot chocolate, and baking recipes like cakes and muffins," he says.
What is Sweetened Condensed Milk?
"Sweetened condensed milk is similar to evaporated milk, but [it has] sugar," says Canonne. It is made by heating regular milk until it's reduced by about one-third of its total weight, then mixed with sugar and rapidly cooled, he explains. It’s often simply called condensed milk.
Texture and Taste
Between the heating process and addition of sugar, sweetened condensed milk is thick, sweet, and dense, according to Canonne. It also has a light ivory tinge that may look more noticeable than the color of evaporated milk.
Uses
Since condensed milk is sweetened, it's primarily used in desserts, says Erin Cayaban, corporate pastry chef at TAO Group Hospitality. Examples include sweet sauces, glazes, custards, confections, chocolates, candies, and dessert fillings. The product is particularly useful for rich, dense treats that require a near-solid consistency, such as key lime pie or fudge, says Canonne. In fact, dulce de leche—a thick caramel-like sauce traditionally used in Latin cuisine. Sweetened condensed milk is also used in beverages around the world, as seen in Vietnamese iced coffee, Spanish café bombón, Mexican horchata, and Venezuelan chicha, says Leal.
Evaporated Milk vs. Condensed Milk
Although evaporated milk and condensed milk are both shelf-stable milk products that are produced in similar ways, they're not the same. The main distinction is the addition of sugar in condensed milk, which yields a different texture and flavor profile. As Leal explains: "Evaporated milk offers creaminess without sweetness and is suitable for savory dishes and some desserts. On the other hand, sweetened condensed milk is intensely sweet and used in desserts and sweet treats, thanks to its thick, syrupy texture."
Don't Substitute One for the Other
Substituting evaporated milk for condensed milk or condensed for evaporated is not recommended, according to Cayaban. When a recipe calls for evaporated or condensed milk, the other ingredients (and their measurements) have been chosen to work with that specific milk's texture and sweetness. Thus, using condensed milk in a recipe that requires evaporated milk will yield an overly sweet dish. Likewise, if you were to use evaporated milk when condensed milk is required, the final product would be too bland, says Cayaban. For best results, "follow the recipe's recommendation for the type of milk to ensure the desired taste and consistency," says Leal.
The Difference Between Evaporated and Condensed Milk—and When to Use Each
