Welcome to ¡Ask a Tortilla Tournament Judge!, the world’s premier column on all things tortilla. Each week throughout the 2022 Tortilla Tournament of Champions, judge Gustavo Arellano will take your most burning (but never burnt) tortilla questions. Grab your butter and salsa macha, because things are about to get caliente.
Q: Way back in 2003, the Los Angeles Times published my children's story, "The Smooth Side of the Tortilla" (it was serialized over five days). My story was inspired by an argument with my Mexican (and Mexican-adjacent) co-workers about whether there was a smooth side of a tortilla. We never resolved this issue (much like the kids in my fictionalized version of the argument). I can't find any scholarly monographs on the subject. What's the answer to this mystery? And if there is a smooth side, does it matter when it comes to using tortillas to make quesadillas or enchiladas?
The guy who asked this is author Daniel A. Olivas, whose latest book How to Date a Flying Mexican is a delight of fancy, style, and scope. And while didn’t say in his letter whether he thought there was a smooth side to a tortilla, maybe he didn’t because anyone who knows their tortillas would say, “DUH.” Except Mexicans wouldn’t call the side “smooth,” even though I get where people might think so.
Confused yet? Trust me: Any time I heat a tortilla, I’m confused — but I know there’s a there there.
Get a corn tortilla. You’ll notice one side is thicker — that’s the side where you’re supposed to hold — while the other one looks more delicate and where you put in ingredients. The former is known in the tortilla industry as the “stomach,” while the latter is known as the “back.” Or it’s known the “strong” side and the “weak.” Or the “back” and the “weak.” Or, as we say in Mexico, derecho (right way) and a reves (backwards).
Or, I guess “smooth” and, um, not smooth?
Why does all this matter? Because if you put your stuffings in the wrong way, the tortilla won’t bend as effectively…or so I’ve been told. But it’s true. Try it yourself!
Forgot to mention: I answered this question back in 2020, although asked differently. But again: Any time I heat a tortilla, I’m confused — but I know there’s a there there.
Q: Can someone explain to me why some BBQ places refuse to provide flour tortillas to accompany their sliced brisket?
Because they’re jerks! Brisket is a Texas staple; flour tortillas are a Tex-Mex staple. Brisket tacos on flour tortillas? A delicious combo of tallow and lard in a mouthful — and some BBQ masters, like A’s BBQ in East Los Angeles – they are even doing flour tortillas using tallow. Maybe brisket solely in sandwiches or in a plate with white bread were great 20 years ago, but this is a new era, so who on earth would someone deny flour tortillas to a brisket lover? That’s as cruel as a taco made from Guerrero tortillas.
Got a puffy question about tortillas? Ask Gustavo at mexicanwithglasses@gmail.com. Happy eating!
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FAQs
With a corn tortilla, “you'll notice one side is thicker — that's the side where you're supposed to hold — while the other one looks more delicate and where you put in ingredients,” says Gustavo Arellano.
What is the smooth side of the tortilla? ›
(The stomach and the back). The back is a thicker and softer layer, and the stomach is a thin and smoother layer. The rugged/thinner side has more imperfections and it is the correct side to put your fillings and get the most resistance out of your tortillas. – The correct amount of filling.
Is there a top and bottom to a tortilla? ›
However, when it comes to the tortilla, just like there are two sides to every coin, there are two sides to every tortilla, and each has its purpose.
Do tortillas have two sides? ›
It's a little known fact outside of Mexico that a corn tortilla has two distinct sides: a thin side & a thick side.
Which is the right side of a tortilla? ›
When the tortilla is flipped, it's this “weaker” side that becomes the front side of the tortilla. It's upon this “weaker” side that the fillings should be placed because the back of the tortilla, the other side, is the strong layer that will hold everything together without breaking.
What is the proper way to fold a tortilla? ›
Put your filling in the middle of your tortilla and fold the left and right edges in toward the middle. Fold the bottom edge of the wrap over the fillings and tuck them inside the tortilla. Roll the tortilla tightly toward the top edge. Spread a sauce or condiment along the top edge to hold your wrap closed.
Which side is the outside of a flour tortilla? ›
The outside or "back" of a tortilla is rougher, darker, and most importantly, stronger. To utilize this strength, fold your tortilla so the "front" is on the inside, housing your taco, burrito, or enchilada filling, and "back" is on the outside, acting as a sturdy shell to keep those delicious fillings intact.
Why do Mexicans use two tortillas? ›
No one likes a taco that falls apart, after all. But street tacos are especially tricky, because they're often packed with even more ingredients than your average taco. That's why two tortillas are key – they help ensure that everything stays in its rightful place.
Why don't Mexicans put cheese on tacos? ›
It was only when tacos made their way to America that cheese became a common addition. So, technically speaking, Mexican tacos do not have cheese. That being said, while their origins are undeniably Mexican, tacos have become a global food.
Are you supposed to cook store bought tortillas? ›
Whether you're making your own or using store-bought, the key to tender tortillas is warming them up right before filling them, then keeping them warm.
Street Food 10cm corn tortillas are the perfect street food size used by taqueros; this size is great for parties, as it is still easy to eat standing up, or served as a starter. Allow 6-8 per person on average. Available in both blue and white.
Do tortillas expire? ›
There should always be an expiration date printed on the original packaging of your tortillas. If stored correctly, your tortillas could last even longer than this printed date. But when checking to see if your tortillas are too bad to eat, looking at this date is a good place to start.
What is a tortilla flattener called? ›
A tortilla press is a traditional device with a pair of flat round surfaces of about 8-inch plus to crush balls of corn dough in order to obtain round corn tortillas or flour tortillas.
Why do my tortillas crack on one side? ›
Holes and cracks are more likely to occur when your masa lacks sufficient moisture and/or when the masa has not been mixed thoroughly or evenly enough.
What are the three types of tortillas? ›
Soft tortillas are the traditional base for Mexican fajitas or burritos—but, depending on the type of flour or cornmeal used, these thin round flatbreads can vary widely in calories, sodium, and more.
