1970 Ford Mustang for sale by owner - Easley, SC - craigslist (2024)

Exterior: The car originally lime metallic was changed to Calypso Coral with the door warranty sticker updated to reflect the Calypso Coral paint code. Black out around the tail panel, pinch welds, head light buckets and rocker moldings was done following original examples. Full quarters (factory style) both sides were replaced, along with all bolt on sheet metal. Head light buckets are originals. Body filler was left to an extreme minimum. The rear spoiler is a true original fiberglass unit not the plastic reproduction. The hood stripe is a low gloss textured painted as original and in the correct Dearborn style. The “351” hood numbers are a decal with white trim as original. There are significant variances in the hood decals on documented originals with early to mid-year cars using a random combination of all black decals, white border, or no call out at all (solid stripe). By late production all documented unrestored originals are showing a white border. The floor pan had a full replacement that was modified to reflect the ribbing style of 1970. A correct reproduction does not exist. This involved taking a full 1969 reproduction pan plus 2 forward patch panels. Taking the right patch panel and turning backwards and splicing in into the left side eliminating the 69 forward drain hole. Additional adjustments to mirror the 70 pan were fabricated from scratch. Sound deadner was applied in the factory way. The extra sound deadner on the floor was a feature of the Mach 1 package but not on Boss cars. Brake lines, cables, and fuel line were installed prior to the application at the factory and thus is concours correct for those items to be covered. The “slop grey” applied to much of the under body and various parts was matched to some original parts from this car. Dearborn mixed left over paints from the prior day into some primer to paint the parts and body. As a result the exact color changed significantly from 1 day to the next. Typical is a blue-grey result, I have seen a few examples appearing green.

Chrome:
Original re-chromed items include the gas cap, quarter window trim, hood locks. The shifter handle and sport lamps are cleaned originals.

Zinc, Cad, and Phosphate items. Throughout the car no fake or imitation paints were used to replicate original plating or phosphate. I am able to perform my own zinc electro plating and phosphating. Cad items were send out to a professional shop. Additionally an original gas filler tube was re-coated in lead as original. Reproductions are often painted or plated.

Natural finish: A significant amount of components mostly under the body were left bare by the factory. Some items were heat treated and dipped in oil originally resulting in a darker metal finish. For this a combination of phosphating and chemical dipping in a product similar to gun blue was used to replicate the factory finish and then protect the parts. Other bare steel parts received various techniques to preserve the parts. The drive shaft has a 2k clear coat. Suspension parts mostly were zinc plated but not chromated and further given a darkening treatment to turn the zinc closer to natural steel. Finally a heavy coating of “RPM” brand wax designed just for the purpose of protecting bare metal concours parts was applied. Some high temp engine clear coat was applied to very small areas of machined surfaces such as around the transmission, rear-dif., and rear brake drum lips.

Suspension and Steering: All tie rods are good assembly line correct “B” stamp units with original adjusting sleeve hardware. As with much hardware the reproductions from AMK are not accurate. The steering valve body and power cylinder are rebuilt originals. The hoses are concours reproductions and include correct details and even stamped part numbers in the brass fittings. The steering gear box rebuilt and hand painted black after installation as was done on the assembly line per original Ford documentation.
Paint daubs on front and rear suspension was checked against original documented examples and backed up my the MPAC and factory assembly manuals. Front and rear springs are metal chemically darkened to match original finish. Correct part numbers were stamped into the lower leaf on the rear springs. All control arms are original including spring perches. The spring perches are the correct ovel logo non-padded assembly line units with restored hardware and new bushings. The upper arms and ball joints were redesigned for service replacement prior to 1975. Making the NOS units commonly found on EBAY totally wrong for authenticity. For this restoration no less than 10 original sets were evaluated in finding the very best originals to use. The 3 tab ball upper ball joint is a vintage replacement that received some minor cosmetic changes to make them nearly a perfect match to the assembly line originals including concours reproduction boots. 3 hole tab style ball joints are virtually impossible to find. In the course of the 4 year restoration I found exactly 5 NOS/NORS units for sale….2 of those are now on the car. All 4 control arms were shipped to Anghel Restorations for installation of the ball joints in the exact concours correct “waffle pattern” rivet heads. Gun blue was used on the bare steel to reproduce original heat marks from welded parts. Gabriel shocks was actually the OE manufacturer of the original “Autolite” shocks and their currently produced shocks make a very close replacement. The modern part numbers and Gabriel name were covered with some filler and painted semi-gloss black. Concourse reproduction hardware was installed.

Engine: The entire original drive train was missing from the car but correct casting number replacements were utilized including a 1970 “D0” casting water pump. The cam is a true assembly line NOS part. Heads were rebuilt using NOS valves, springs, and keepers. Hardened seats were added for use with non-leaded gas. The engine was painted with a 2k ceramic (no shaker can) fully assembled as original. Some parts such as the lift hooks and air cleaner are non-matching shade of blue. This is correct as these parts would have been painted by the vendors and never matched the shade Ford was using. On the accessories some brackets and components are sprayed and others dipped while others were phosphate. The correct finish was used in the restoration. There are many other concours touches all around the engine.
Carburetor:
The carburetor was built with every component being exactly matched to the MPAC specifications that are very unique to the 1970 Mustang 351C with manual trans application (such as highest value power valve and main jets). Zinc parts were of course re-zinc electro plated. The body was machined and with new brass sleeves for the valve shaft. This is not typically done in your common rebuild but to return performance to true as new is required. A correct and tuned anti-diesel throttle solenoid is installed and set to the factory tune. This was a new feature done for emissions control and once the engine is running as normal has no impact, however when starting its now critical to follow the Ford starting instructions to the T (key to the run position, fully depress the accelerator pedal, turn the key to start). The solenoid acts in place of the idle set screw. In this way when the key is turned off the throttle plate can go all the way flat instead of to just the idle position insuring even a hot engine will shut down and not “Diesel” with just ignition off. This is why the solenoid must be energized and then the pedal fully depressed to allow the solenoid to move into its default idle position. Its not capable of moving to the idle position on its own. If you don’t do this it will be extremely difficult to impossible to start. Over the years this a component that is very typically eliminated my mechanics by simply engaging the idle set screw as traditionally done. Again I built this Mach 1 to be authentic in appearance and function and the solenoid is installed and operational as original.

The distributor was also built following the MPAC specifications including finding an NOS vacuum advance unit that is different in style from the 1972 change that is reproduced today. I had shipped it out to have the curve set to specifications. Vacuum is port controlled per original specifications including concours hoses and even the aluminum “zip tie”. I did opt for a pertronics electronic ignition vs points. Points could be installed relatively quickly for a true authentic operation. Being so hidden and providing such a significant reliability improvement was my reasoning for the change.

Transmission: The transmission is a 1970 service unit. The casting number in 1970 is the same as 1969 however, the center drain hole was no longer machined in by Ford as was in 1969. One of the tail shaft bolts is now used for draining. This unit is suspected as being a service unit as there is no vin number stamping. The paint markings and ID tag were chosen based on careful research provided by a few MCA gold card judges. The hurst comp plus shifter is a true 1970 Mustang original unit and is different from later comp plus shifters that would otherwise be a direct replacement. The shifter was fully rebuilt and replated. The chrome lever is a quality original and again unique to 1970 the 71 lever was shaped differently. The handle a concours correct reproduction. Getting the correct font of the numbers on the handle is something that has only recently been reproduced.

Drive Shaft: Was built to the highest concours standards by Dead Nuts On. Including OE tubing supplier and constructed in the original way down to the balance weights and paint stripe codes.

Rear axle: The carrier was dipped in red oxide primer and then machined leaving machined surfaces bare as original. The axle tube was painted in the same left side up orientation as was done by the Sterling axle plant. Paint runs go from right to left with the right end in bare metal as original.

A/C system was converted to 134A with an expansion valve tuned for the 134A but is concours in all cosmetics.

Exhaust: single as correct for a 2V car. The mid pipe is NOS, the muffler is built just like the original only missing the Ford logo and part numbers. The system is welded at the muffler as was done originally. The clamps are exact reproductions of the assembly line units including the Ford logo. NOS clamps are readily available but are typically of a revised style starting in the early 70s.

Exterior Lights:
Headlights are vintage GE replacements to be as correct as I could locate. Though all main harnesses in the car were replaced. I used original socket pig tails for the back up lights, sport lamps, and front turn signals as reproductions are far from correct. The sport lamps and front turn signal bodies are originals re-plated with inside painted with a reflective silver paint as was done originally. The bulbs are actually amber painted glass as original. The replacement bulbs made for the last few decades have a colored glass that usually more transparent than the original painted bulbs. The back up lights are reproductions but with the correct grey gaskets and original pig tails. The front side turn signal metal retainers are original re-plated. You will see some sound deader has landed on the turn signal body and metal retainer. This is concours correct.

Brakes: Master Cylinder is an exact concours reproduction from Dead Nuts On, front rotors are original K/H 2 piece units (becoming extremely difficult to find). Rear drums are originals that have been machined including the outer lip as was done at the factory.

Please serious inquiries only. No trades.